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Sunday, January 13, 2008

Insulating Your Home

Insulating Your HomeIt may seem like an uninteresting product selection, but insulation is a critical material in determining your home's energy efficiency and the amount of money you'll end up spending for cooling and heating. When properly and adequately installed in your floors, walls and ceilings, this relatively cheap product is maintenance free and quietly does its job for the life of your home.

Choosing the right insulation material for your home depends on where it will be used and the building and energy codes for your particular town. Your contractor can help you choose the best options for your needs.

Here is some helpful information to help you determine how much insulation is enough, what kinds of materials to use and where to insulate.

How Insulation Works

Insulation works by slowing the flow of heat trying to leave your home by making it jump across million of tiny air spaces. The smaller and more plentiful the air spaces, the better the insulation. Your home easily loses heat to the outside air through radiation and conduction which moves the heat from a warm area to colder area - basically from your heated house to the outdoors. Heat is also lost through air leaks - those hidden holes and cracks in your home.

Types of Insulation

All insulation is rated by its R-value, which is the insulation material's resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the more effective the insulation. To compare the effectiveness of various types of insulation you'll want to look at the R-value per inch of insulation.

The type of insulation you choose will depend on various factors, like the specific area to be insulated, the cost of the material and installation, state codes, ventilation requirements, space limitations and resistance to moisture. Every material on the market has it pros and cons, which is why a good contractor is essential in determining which type of insulation is most appropriate for your home. As for the cost, insulation is based on square footage (generally starting at 80 cents per square) and varies depending on the type of insulation and insulation process.

Here is a list of the most common types of insulation available:

Fiberglass insulation is the most common type of insulation and is made from molten glass spun into micro fibers. It is usually pink or yellow and comes in the form of batts or rolled blankets. Batts are sized to fit standard spacing between wall studs, rafters and floor joists and can be used in all areas of your home.

Rock wool insulation is literally made from rock. It's manufactured similar to fiberglass, but with molten rock instead of glass. The gray or brown fibers are available in batts, rolled blankets or as shredded loose-fill.

Loose fill mineral fiber is chopped fiberglass or rock wool, which is generally blown into attics with specialized equipment.

Loose fill cellulose is made from shredded recycled paper such as newspaper or cardboard and then treated with fire retardant. It works best when blown into attics and existing wall cavities.

Blow in Blanket System (BIBS) consists of chopped fiberglass mixed with binders and blown behind netting in open walls or existing wall cavities. This patented product is generally available for new construction only, so ask your contractor if a BIBS certified installer is available in your area.

Rigid foam insulation board is a synthetic insulation, which usually consists of polystyrene or polyurethane foam. It is most commonly used in rigid boards for insulating basements, cathedral ceiling and side walls. This product is also available by certain manufacturers as a spray-on expanding foam, which when applied expands to double its size, making it a great product for filling in nooks and crannies.

Another benefit to using polyurethane is that it has the highest R-value for any given thickness compared to other insulation products. Because it provides a higher R-value per inch, homeowners using foam insulation can use 2x4 construction on exterior walls instead of the 2x6 studs required with traditional insulation. Foam insulation also helps control moisture, it won't shrink or settle, and it's fire- and insect-resistant. For a new home it's the way to go, because it can be blown into your entire home. Spray foam insulation runs about 20 percent higher than traditional materials, but keep in mind the high R-value and the energy you'll save in years to come.

Know Your R-Value

Every area in your home has a recommended R-value. It may not be a conversation your contractor wants to have with you, but one well worth the time and in the long haul - well worth the money. Contractors can dazzle homeowners with top-of-the-line furnaces, wood burning stoves and fireplaces, but none of that will matter if the insulation isn't adequate enough to keep the heat in. Some key areas to know your R-value are your exterior walls, which should have a R-value of at least 19, sloped and cathedral ceilings should range from R-30 to R-38, an unheated attic should be a R-38 and the joist cavity under your floor should range from R-11 to R-30. It is essential that the the entire joist cavity be filled with insulation, because any air gaps will greatly reduce the R-value in that room. The same is true when you're insulating your basement - fill in the gaps, otherwise moisture will find its way through. The area you're insulating is called the rim joist, which is the area above the concrete wall between the joists in the basement ceiling and between floors in two story homes.

Don't forget about insulating your heating ducts, especially if you live in a cooler climate and have a furnace or heat pump. You can lose up to one-third of your heat through uninsulated, leaky ductwork. For areas which are unheated like the attic, crawl space or basement (in some cases) you can get away with using a R-8 to insulate your ducts.

Moisture is another area of concern, because water greatly reduces the effectiveness of insulation and can breed mold, insects and rot. You wouldn't think this would be a concern in a new home, but the moisture you need to worry about comes from inside your home - from cooking, bathing and cleaning. The moisture moves into your wall and ceiling cavities via the air, which is why it is recommended to use batt insulation wrapped in foil or kraft paper to serve as a barrier against moisture.

Don't forget about your water pipes! They should be wrapped with a R-3 insulation to protect them from freezing in the winter and to help keep the hot water hot.

Source thehousedesigners.com

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